Tuesday, 15 September 2015

Uluwatu, the monkeyful paradise

Wazzzaaaaa my dearests,


Today was the day for Uluwatu, venturing even further south. Uluwatu is famous for rich couples and rich families staying at cool resorts, with nothing much else around. But many places also claimed it had the the nicest, most peaceful beaches around. And scenery in general.


For some reason, even though I felt so unwilling to go and hang out with monkeys in the Monkey Forest of Ubud, it didn't seem such a bad idea to visit the Monkey Temple of Uluwatu, mentioned somewhere online as 'notorious' for its evil monkeys ('evil' in both the sense that they had the distinct possibility of carrying rabies, as well as an even greater possibility of being a thief whose talents exceed even the most skillful Vietnamese human pickpocketers).


We left Kuta southwards, past the airport and past Jimbaran, into more hilly scenery. After about half an hours drive google maps froze so we had no directions... “We're in the middle of nowhere,” Nikki commented hintingly after quite a long time of 'aimless' driving, or well, following that one road. “A few more kilometres,” I promised her, not completely believing in myself. But, I turned out to be right! Our road ended at some templey looking place which turned out to be The Templey Place!


In the end, South Bali is no Saigon – there was one 'main' road (and let me show you a pic of the mainness of it...), there was hardly any way you'd go the wrong way unless you literally drove into a rice field.
The main road
So, Monkey Temple. Firstly, lucky it was not that time of the month for either of us, otherwise we wouldn't have been allowed in. (True story.) (Not that they would have had any way of checking....... I hope)
See #4
We got stunning purple sarongs (sarongs?) which seemed pretty pointless because, with some people, they covered less than their own capri trousers. I asked the ticket dude if it was safe to take my bag in or if the monkeys would take it, and he was quick to offer his services as a monkey guide for 100,000. Erm, maybe not, though, ta.
Not a monkey in sight!
To reassure you, mumsie, the monkeys were not bad at all. And there weren't even many of them. 

Monkey statue
Monkey guide
And we only witnessed one stolen item, here we have Boss, Tofu Boss, posing shamelessly with his newly acquired sunglasses...

They promised you that if a monkey did steal something off you, you'd get it back. But it's not encouraged to distribute your stuff willy nilly to them (I exaggerate) because they have to be bribed with fruit or other goodies, providing them with an unintentional 'prize' for stealing that object.
They also had funky large lizards
More risqué was this cool area where we took pics (along with other tourists, and guides even!), and only after we'd left we noticed a sign very, very strictly forbidding going onto that area due to cliff fallings and whatnot...
Here
And the temple itself? Well, I can't honestly say much about the temple itself – you weren't allowed in, and to be completely honest, for me, it wasn't that much about the temple. It was about the views.

Now let me tell you something. Especially rereading my previous entry about Jimbaran, I didn't sound massively enthusiastic about any of the scenery. The thing is, everything we saw in Bali was beautiful. Of course it was beautiful, it was Bali! My expectations were very high, much higher than I think anywhere else I've visited. So, it's hard to completely appreciate the sheer beauty of it without thinking “well, is this worthy of the word paradise?” (which it often, actually, wasn't) So, like Jimbaran beach yesterday, had it been on our Malaysian holiday, I would've praised it no end. But, it's Bali. You'd hardly expect a dump.


BUT ANYWAYS. Uluwatu Temple was probably the best scenery I saw on the whole trip. It was BREATH-TAKING. The ocean, so vast, so BLUE, and the waves that I've so often described so poetically as WIDE and POWERFUL (note sarcasm with the word choice of 'poetically'... but it's true!! They were wide and powerful!!). And this temple hanging on a cliff. A stunner.

Nikki was tired
Practising the normal Asian pose
Patiently yet hintingly waiting for about ten minutes for the French tourist next to me to finish taking selfies
Result!



After sweating enough at the Monkey Temple, we awoke google maps from the dead and decided we'd venture onwards to the closest 'beautiful beach' (according to various travel sites as well as one of my favourite bloggers who visited Bali back in 2012), Padang-Padang.
We had to take the long route coz the road was closed
So, paradise beaches. When you see them in photos they are not packed with tourists. I guess it was stupid of us to imagine otherwise. But at least the water wasn't packed...
Pretty paradisey, right? 
It was beautiful. Like, absolutely stunning. Just take away the tourists.


We were superhungry so went to sit at this dodgy-looking eating hole where the table was seriously leaning so much that we were hesitant to put bottles on it. However, the food was surprisingly scrumptious and the restaurant ladies sincerely friendly and nice! I expanded my Ozzie culinary knowledge (yes, Bali is very Ozzie, if you haven't gathered by now) and had a jaffle, a toasted sandwich which was very nice! And Nikki's chips were home-made - they were still potatoes when we ordered.

So, Padang-Padang was beautiful, but once again, as we'd been pre-warned to be fair, it was not a beach to swim at. 

The beach
When we went too far – the water reached probably the top of our thighs – we got whistled at (with a whistle :P) and told to come back to shore. (Or at least, that's what I think happened, I was never able to place the lifeguard in the flocks of people on the beach, but...)

The best bit of Padang-Padang was venturing over the jagged rocks onto the more uninhabited areas of the beach. Such a long beachline, absolutely beautiful. Now this was Bali.


Many funky live sea creatures...
One of my fave ever pics :)


We even saw more monkeys – wild, unadvertised ones! 
Another fave pic: monkey, surfer, beach. Parasta.
Some were even carrying babies!! But then they became more and more numerous, and started hissing at each other, so we left the scene.
But not before taking a sneaky pic
A few pics of the sunset and the mafia monkey...



Then, it was time to go 'home'.

Stopping once in a while for pics... LOOK AT THAT 

We spent the evening back at our Joker's bar (the one with the apple cider and the brilliant music). Coincidentally, one of the musicians who came to talk to us afterwards turned out to have a Finnish girlfriend! We found many curious links to Finland and the Finns here at Bali... 


Possibly the best day. I LOVE driving (riding... but it still sounds weird to say riding. It's a bike, not a horse) Bali streets, especially in the more rural south. Uluwatu Temple was a definite positive surprise, and Padang-Padang beach fulfilled them paradisey Bali beach expectations. A stunning day.
The map, now also including our Jimbaran route (blue) and rough (well, they're all rough) Uluwatu route (mauve)
But tomorrow: SURFAGEEEEE

Auf wiedersehn,
Emzy

xxx 
What does it say?

Sunday, 13 September 2015

First tastes of Bali beachlife and nightlife

HOWDY MATES

I don't think many people will argue with the fact that the most famous thing about Bali is its beaches. Something we also learnt quite quickly when researching Bali was that the main city, Kuta, did not have the best beach (and wasn't the most scenic town in itself, either, very built-up)... The best beaches were apparently in South Kuta, where all them party-oriented Ozzie bogans would be too hungover to travel to. (Sorry, generalisation. But still. Sort of accurate.)
Kuta looks ok too...
So, we decided to start with the beach with the least expectations, and we went to Kuta Beach. Nice sand, refreshing water, but a MILLION salespeople offering ice cream, random bracelets, random scarf thingies, random thingies you can lie on, and everything random that you did not particularly want to be harassed into buying whilst relaxing on the beach. Also, apparently swimming was prohibited. Lol. We took a few pics, and then agreed quite quickly on moving on...
No swimming allowed -flag
Jimbaran Beach, our next destination, was about half an hour away. It meant going past the airport on a big highway and round big roundabouts. It was pretty exciting – and disconcerting at times -, being on this little motorbike on a real big road, with normal cars and stuff (not just the taxis and occasional crazy bus or truck like in Vietnam)... But we managed!

The first impression was BEAUTIFUL, as you can see. Take away a few clouds and it would be IDYLLIC. And swimming was not prohibited here!
View from the place we went to the toilet at and bought a coke.
Not that you could really swim – the waves here were amazing and just so, er, wide? They came at you slowly but powerfully, so it was lots of fun playing in them. As long as you managed to stay away from them very dodgy plastic baggy things that sometimes clung to your leg when a wave threw them at you. Ewwww.
I prefer sand to plastic bags


The best part of Jimbaran beach, for me, something Nikki frequently dispaired over, was the close proximity to that AWESOME AIRPORT I told you about two entries back. The runway literally starts when the water ends. I wonder if they've even built the runway on water. (According to wikipedia, yes, they built over 1,000m of runway towards the sea.) (Apparently, North Bali is planning a floating airport! Yet another reason to return...) Anyways, it looked as if the aircraft were landing on the water, and it was amazing. And they'd wait there for other aircraft to pass, sometimes appear to kiss, ahhh it was amazing. My kind of beach.

Mummy Malaysian airlines waiting for take-off turn...
After the clouds started coming back, we went to look for food. This beachy area we'd found had one or two resorts, and the rest were very traditional food places, whose owners were shouting at us to try their very fresh (very alive) seafood. Unfortunately neither of us are the biggest fans of seafood.
Bye bye beach
Down this alley
So, at 3pm, we found this deserted looking eating hole – however when we asked for food the lady produced a very long and comprehensive food menu and sat us down. They even had both the things we ordered, and they were pretty scrumptious! The lady also owned a clothes shop, where I bought this STUNNER of a turquoise, er, drapy beachware dressy throw-over. Yes, that's it. A nearby lady came to give me a 'massaa' (massage) and only later did I realise she was trying to advertise her own massaging services. Oh well.
More kwetiau om nom
With the newest caniney friend
Boys 
Funky zebra dog!!
Then, back home, quick nap, and then we went shopping around Kuta. I don't particularly like shopping around Kuta, because the salespeople are PUSHY. Not all, I learnt happily, but most. The main greetings are “Shopping, shopping” and “Looking, looking” and “Five dollar” (or any other price) for something that you may've accidentally looked at while passing by (and even if you hadn't...) Then they would run after you, lowering the price of that thing by like 90%, which would probably be a decent price, except that you had no desire or need to buy that random adaptor/swaggy watch/ornamental object designed in the shape of man parts...
Cool
And if you go to Bali, and are even slightly budget-concious, buy your magnets and other 'junk' souvenirs (in Finnish you have a word for this: krääsä. It means stuff you don't really need but are pretty or cute or fun or something so you get them anyways, and a lot of them.) from the shops, not the stalls. I got a set of ten Bali-keyrings for 15,000 at a shop. I asked a dude how much he charged for his set of five, identical. Guess what he said? 120,000. I'm not gonna even start calculating the percentages...


After shopping, it was time to sample Bali's famous nightlife in our stylish matching outfits of neon and green. Nikki was lamenting on the fact that there was no cider, so when we found a place advertising 'Apple Cider Available Here', we went, and it was LITERALLY the best cider I have had in my entire life, SO GOOD. And the restaurant was ADORABLE too – Joker's restaurant, with an amazing live band – more on that later, since we became frequent visitors...
OM NOM
Then we chanced upon a place called Eikon, which happened to be brilliant, so much dancing and Nikki got introduced to them, er, bogans (who we christened 'muskeliaussit' in Finnish, since literally ALL the Ozzie guys were HUGE).

Eikon art
Then we went to the famous Skygarden, which is known to be a bit of a tourist trap and not very pleasant, but it is also known for its five floors and many different dancing/hanging out areas. And we loved it. If you got bored of one area, there were many more to choose from. I have not had that much fun dancing somewhere for AGES. And, if that's not enough, the toilets were AWESOME...
See
So, mostly, an excellent night. And an excellent day.

Tomorrow, further south towards Uluwatu and its monkey temple and its beaches...

Toodlepip,
Emzy


xxxxx